nicolas ghesquiere is all about the future, either in a more abstract sense (taking pieces from the archives and modernizing it) or literal. for spring, he went with the later, in a show that he said was “about absorbing and reflecting light.” the thoroughly “tech” collection of dresses with heart shaped centers and wrapped arms, metallic colorblock jackets, equestrian-inspired pants with seaming details and flared legs, tops with built-in corseting, mod shift minis where the sleeves go into attached gloves, and low slung tapered pants with wrap around belts. the end section had alot of shine by way of sequin dresses with attached shrugs, ribbon fringe and “scaled” drop waist dresses.
it took me a while to digest this collection, and now that i have, i like it, even if it isn’t entirely wearable. putting your tights on over your shoes (to minimize the effect what has become the new “it” thing) doesn’t work in the real world. neither does wrapping yourself in a coccoon and going to work. all the looks were shown with clutches, ghesquiere said, “the collection is a bit out there, so i wanted to bring it down to something women would really wear.” except no one i know carries a clutch during the day. is nicolas out of touch, or does he simply not care? he’s got the prefall and resort collections, which are more commercial, and the capsule lines (leather, knits, silk, etc) which sell like hotcakes. good thing, because you know everything on the runway is going to be priced in the tens of thousands. so maybe he doesn’t care, and he can be more experimental on the runway, because the shoes, bags and other stuff will keep the money coming in.
pics from catwalking