September 24, 2007

s/s 2008 milan: burberry prorsum.

collections Uncategorized

for spring, burberry’s christopher bailey softened up. slightly. but not much.

the designer said he had been listening to alot of deep purple and iron maiden and that’s where the rock and roll came from: studded belts and trenchcoats, heavily worked weaved bags, road warrior sunglasses, chunky metal bracelets and black sandals worn with black ankle socks. but when you strip down all the hard edges, the collection is very feminine and has alot of frills.

the looks included ruched chiffon and organdy dresses in all types: tube, halter, shirtdress, ruffled bateau neck tops, peplum hem bustiers, overblown burberry plaid skirts and shift dresses, fringed pencil skirts, and signature trenchcoats with triple shoulder flanges and large gold buttons. the color story here was more muted: cream, white, tan, and pale grey.

the collection moved into a harder section, where the color shifted to black and charcoal, and more sophisticated tones like garnet, plum, navy, bronze, magenta and turquoise. pieces included pinwheel silk shift dresses, satin pencil skirts, ruffled cardigans, a side stitched coat, and a frilly strapless “prom dress.”

i saw alot in this collection, from the frothyness of balenciaga’s spring 2001 show, to tom ford’s gucci collection (where bailey was an assistant). it defintely seemed a bit too much on the runway, but break it apart and there are some really pretty pieces here. i love the coats with the pyramid studs and the ruched pencil skirts. i’ll be checking these out when the trunkshow comes to town.

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