March 3, 2006

f/w 2006 paris: silent lucidity.

collections Uncategorized

hot on the heels of the gothic couture show in january, john galliano went more rock and roll goth for the dior ready to wear collection. the pieces included floor length shaggy hair coats, skinny pants, motorcycle boots, stamped leather jackets worn with chiffon skirts and big rhinestone buckle belts, distressed suiting, and references to the 1947 New Look jackets, some covered in tulle, others with battenberg lace and some with tattered hems.

after a few off seasons, alexander mcqueen showed why he is still a force to be reckoned with in fashion. the collection, which featured sharp tailored suiting, micropleated silk skirts, chunky knit cardigans, tartan bias cut dresses with lace hems, feathered gowns, and bird headdresses. the final section, of velvet gowns with flutter sleeves, coccoon sleeve coats, and frothy cream layers of tulle…complete with a holographic kate moss in a plexiglas box, was the perfect ending to one of the best f/w shows.

at lanvin, alber elbaz used midcentury couture as his inspiration. there was looks inspired by dior’s new look, balenciaga, schiaparelli, and st. laurent: padding, volume, illusion and tuxedos. but he also stuck to some lanvin classics: structured day dresses in plum and pumpkin silk, sexy coats with big buttons and puffy sleeves, and hot accessories: tulle wrapped pearls, crystal ankle wrap pumps, and ribbon wraped jeweled necklaces.