February 28, 2006

f/w 2006 paris: back to the future.

collections Uncategorized

say you’re nicolas ghesquiere, and you designed a s/s collection that critics called “inspiring,” “directional,” and “brilliant,” what do you do for an encore? you reach back into the archives, and when the mood for the season is already very “cristobal,” you present a balenciaga collection that is stripped down and moody as only cristobal would have done it.

the coccoon shape that showed up at marc jacobs, donna karan, etc. (and last season in gold embroidered dresses) and create double breasted coats, cropped collarless jackets and silver toggle jackets worn with black tights, platform boots, and pleated short (short) skirts in plaids and tiny houndstooth.

the subtle quilting on this dress is exquisite, and it showed up on slightly flared sleeve jackets, those pleated microminis, 60s mod style sheaths, and a wonderful big collared cropped jacket.

of course there was skinny pants, worn with jackets in quilted peplums, tulip edged short sleeves, and cropped double breasted incarnations. there was also a few cropped trousers with cuffed hems.

finally the dresses ranged from floral embroidered or tapestry tulip skirts with beaded bodices, shoulders and backs to sleek sheaths in textured black silk, or draped shoulders and necklines that fell over the back or into chic hoods.

pics from style.com