at versace, donatella versace took one of the major moods of the season, 80s redux, and spun it in a more grown-up, modern way. instead of piling on the ornamentation, versace used a moody purple, black and indigo palette as a backdrop for belted sweaterdresses, mod swing coats, sleek pantsuits, draped silk jersey dresses, minidresses worn over turtlenecks. at night, the glamour continued with gowns in strapless, one shoulder pleated satin, ombred, and draped in cobalt, magenta, grey and pale pink.
other designer finding his sweet spot is thomas maier, who’s latest showing for bottega veneta proved that he is getting comfortable creating soft, quiet clothes to match his “stealth-wealth” accessories. there were grey fitted knit dresses with body conscious seaming, elbow sleeve double breasted coats, short strapless sheaths, skirt suits with cropped jackets and a-line skirts, muted plaids, empire dresses with sashes that draped around the body, and evening looks of pleated chiffon accented with rhinestone belts and dripping chains. as for the accessories, maier showed platform pumps, snakeskin bags with thick chain handles, woven leather clutches, open toe ankle strap woven pumps, and gold buckled duffle bags.