two designers with considerable experience showed for the first time at their new place of employment with varying results.
first, olivier theyskens made his debut on the runway in a beautiful, ethereal collection for nina ricci that felt more like a softer version of rochas. using the l’air du temps bottle as a starting point, the collection featured twisted sweaters and sweaterdresses, theyskens signature pantsuits, bias cut jackets, dresses and tops, and blouson silk minidresses, all in a more looser silhouette than his namesake collection or rochas. the eveningwear was masterful: in yellow, gray, black and white, seamed with the body, crinkled silk fishtail skirts, chiffon panels, frayed hems, and a yellow/lime/white ombre version that echoed reese witherspoon’s oscar gown.
at her vionnet debut, sophia kokosalaki showed some lovely daywear and stunning evening dresses. looks included shearling coats, ombre silk skirts, dull silk coccoon sleeve jackets, wrap silk dresses with puffed sleeves, belted coatdresses and trenches, slouchy cuffed trousers, strapless lamé bubble hem dresses, and interesting draped skirts. the gowns had draped bodices, roped straps, and metallic intarsia knits. her first collection (spring 07) which wasn’t even shown sold out in weeks, so that bodes well for this fall line.
images from nymag.com and style.com