March 10, 2009

f/w 09.10 paris: yves saint laurent.


for most fashion houses, it takes a while before you are actually making a profit, even if you’re as well known as yves saint laurent. the fact that they were able to in an economy as crappy as it is should make stefano pilati happy (especially since it took ten years–and not tom ford–to do so). judging by the collection he presented for fall, pilati was feeling somber, as the looks were mostly black and grey and very masculine in feeling. it started with leather–a trench, bomber, embossed belted coat, even a one piece swimsuit–then evolved into more sophisticated fare in flannel or crisp white shirts. i loved the oversized pinstriped blazer over a mini, the suit with a curved cutout hem jacket, the high funnel collar shift, and the two “le smoking” looks at the end. although there were pieces i liked, i did feel that it missed the spark that some recent ysl collections had. was it the economy or was that stefano feeling the pressure of profit?

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