jean-paul gaultier continued exploring the russian theme started in his ready-to-wear collection (and the f/w collection he did for hermes) by adding more detailing and texturing to the clothes. he showed gypsy skirts trimmed in sable and minks, dripping in ruffles, and velvet shawls and lace blouses with voluminous sleeves. for day he kept things (fairly) simple, showing officer’s coats with huge shawl collars and pantsuits with tonal embroidery in lush teal, purple, burgundy and navy.
elie saab makes showstopping, event worthy dresses. he isn’t big on making tweed suits or ruffled cardigans, but he makes one heck of a red-carpet dress (just ask halle berry, catherine zeta-jones and debra messing). but with all the success comes criticism, and saab has made a more sophisticated turn with this collection. the beading, lace and wonderful fabrics are still there, but the cuts were more ladylike, the ideas more refreshing. look to see some of these gowns at some premieres and galas very soon.