February 20, 2009

f/w 09.10 new york: the old guard.

#NYFW collections

the last few days of fashion week are usually reserved for the pantheon of designers, who took each took on fall in new, yet familiar ways.

tommy hilfiger called his collection “quintessentially fifth avenue,” and it’s easy to see why. the street, which stretches from hipster to old money, was represented in all forms. for the uptown girls, there were covered button trenches, camel peacoats, bubble hem sweaterdresses, side drape shifts, and long jersey gowns. for the downtown hipsters, there was worn denim, skinny ankle pants, and cocktail dresses in pink neon or liquid satin. for a collection that will retail until $400, it hit all the right notes and will satisfy a girl from anywhere.

isaac mizrahi is in his element, with the 80s staging a comeback and color to be found (almost) everywhere. with a show named “smile,” it was probably hard not to while seeing this collection come down the runway. make no mistake, there was alot going on (shiny raw silk, plaid, furn, glitter), but i loved the colorblock dresses, tonal woven sweaters, high waist plaid pants, and the gorgeous section of gowns.

at calvin klein, francisco costa went back to the body as inspiration, presenting a show that was all about texture and paneling, like on a hemline or a coat. even knitwear got into the mix, with turtlenecks and dresses displaying different stitches in one piece, for an intricate and luxurious effect. the mainly monotonous palette of black and grey was livened up with a silver panné velvet and a burnt yellow that appeared two evening dresses, one in a reptile like texture and the other in bands of mesh and velvet. my favorite pieces were the laser cut gowns with the asymmetrical hemlines. like the entire collection, it was simple on the surface, but once you get closer, the details are amazing.

all pics from coutorture.com