francisco costa, after designing a stellar f/w 06 collection, was named cfda womenswear designer of the year. he followed up that show with a sportier, helmut lang-influenced spring collection with mixed results (even by me). today costa showed a fall collection that is by far one of the best he’s done since at calvin klein, one that mixes interesting proprotions, impeccable tailoring and cut, and modernity mixed with classic calvin.
the pieces included super slim sheaths in different variations: with slash pockets and cap sleeves, long sleeves, sequin embroidered, sleeveless with a draped neckline or strapless with a bustier top; thin cashmere knits worn with tulip skirts, standaway shiny blazers with ankle length pants, funnel neck jackets in empire waist or waist length versions, turtlenecks with rose angora embroidery, and cozy a-line knit sweaters.
another standouts included cropped leather jackets, cream pleat waist dresses, drop shoulder shiny coats, and taffeta dresses with inset waists layered over thin short sleeve tops.
pics from nymag