September 26, 2006

spring 2007 milan: burberry prorsum, bottega veneta, prada.

collections Uncategorized

a book of cecil beaton photographs inspired christopher bailey’s burberry prorsum collection for spring. he was taken by the lightness and more joyous feel of some of beaton’s earlier images, and he channeled that into clothes that were fun, glittery and a bit quirky. short swing coats, jackets and shift dresses with belled sleeves, thin knits, shirtdresses, voluminous trenchcoats, cropped croc print leather jackets and flippy silk print skirts and coats. The last segment of the show featured mint, yellow, gold and silver lame coats, dresses with eyelash fur skirts, and huge jeweled bodices and collars.

over at bottega veneta, tomas maier has built a loyal following by producing “non-label” clothing without the girlish frills for grown up women, including kyra sedgwick and maggie gyllenhaal. for spring, he continues that tradition, working in a predominately neutral palette of beige, dusty rose, tan, brown, and dove grey. light dresses with deep cowl necklines in linen and silk, jersey versions with smocked waisted with embroidery, 50s style dresses with inset waists, bodice cutouts and pleated skirts, edwardian style shirts with fisheye closures and fullsleeves, and ballgowns featuring bustier tops and cinched with leather belts. the shoes were also a study in luxury: woven leather t-strap sandals atop sturdy wooden platforms, lizard and croc totes, and flat beach sandals.

at prada, miuccia prada instantly rejected the tough-as-nails heroine that was the star for fall/winter, and moved into something completely different. with the first exit, a girl wearing a red-orange satin tunic, cinched at the waist, cut to the thigh, with a black satin turban, it was clear that the collection was leaving all that behind. There was a mix of short: shorts, minis and tunics, belted at the waist, in orange, purple, black, and navy, suede 60s minidresses with colorblock detail, and sleek: 40s style below the knee pencil skirts, button down shirts, belted trenches, and sequin v-neck dresses. There were also chiffon popover tops worn with briefs, minis, and print camisoles, and fringed leather minidresses and shifts. for the accessories, prada went back to the faithful stiletto pump, this time in black or brown satin wih a pointy toe, along with colorblock suede peeptoe platform sandals, fringed suede clutches, and tasseled colorblock flats.