frida giannini made her debut at gucci, and she finally did what john ray was struggling to do: connect the gucci man with the gucci woman. the 60s influence was clearly felt with skinny jaclets and pants, suede ankle boots, clashing patterns and loud colors. although her recent women’s collection was a bit uneven, this was clear and focused, and shows that there is promising future for gucci menswear.
miuccia prada’s theme for the prada collection was “opposites,” as she paired traditional suits with woolen socks and sandals, long coats with shorts, techno fabrics with cotton, and patent leathers with nylon. it wasn’t obvious luxury, but the details (velcro closures, buckle backs, etc.) were pure prada.
over at vuitton, marc jacobs turned over the reigns to paul helbers, formerly of martin margiela, and the influence was victoriana meets hawaii (huh?) seems like an oxymoron, but helbers was masterful in adding hibiscus prints and patterns to glen plaid jackets and slim trousers. and the patent loafers and belts are sure to set off a trend or two come spring.
over at yves saint laurent, stefano pilati continued to work his magic with a stellar mens collection. the robert evans-70s-ish collection was the most reminiscient of tom ford, but in a much more mature and polished way. suede shirt jackets, print tunics, and slightly cropped pants worn with fringed ankle moccasins and loafers showed that come spring, the ysl man will be feeling groovy, indeed.