September 29, 2005

spring 2006 milan: prada, gucci, burberry prorsum.

collections Uncategorized

after seeing what designers in new york and london were doing for spring, i was expecting miuccia prada to do sleek minimalism (reminiscent of her spring 2001 collection) for prada. instead she showed loose blouses, shirts, skirts and dresses done in overprinted linen worn with platform sandals and grey thigh-high tightsthe restrained color palette (tan, beige, brown, navy) was almost non-color, but was contrasted with bright pink lace up boots. even the evening looks: ruffled layers of sepia and chocolate, striped satins with puff sleeves, and arts and crafts print dresses were childlike and grown up all at once. the prada collection usually sets the tone for the season, and it will be interesting to see the press and public reaction this time around.

gucci is going through a bit of an identity crisis. four seasons removed from the tom ford era, the house is still struggling to find solid ground and regain the hold it had in the fashion world. rather than use the 70s and 80s as her inspiration, head designer frida giannini looked to the 40s. the daywear featured rugby striped polos worn with skinny pants, floral print short dresses with big front slits, and mixed print separates. for evening, the floral print long dresses on black and jersey halters looked a bit reminiscent of diane von furstenberg and rochas. of course the accessories were top notch (giannini being gucci’s former accessories designer). croc double handle totes, flat ankle boots with the gucci horsebit, and platform ankle strap sandals were standouts.

burberry prorsum’s christopher bailey used princess margaret as his starting point for his collection, showing brocade pleated skirts, empire waist jersey dresses, duchess satin short coats with big gold buttons, and sweaters belted with satin ribbon. for evening, he brought the shine factor up a notch, with stiff satin skirts with sequin jackets and cute embroidered shift dresses, all worn with wood bottom platform patent sandals and cute knit berets.


christian lacroix is leaving the house of pucci.

vitals man/woman no more.