muiccia prada is tired of ladies being sweet. so for the prada fall collection, she put the models in short sweaterdresses worn under parkas or anoraks, bustiers worn over sweaters and knit tubes, and longer length skirts. anchored by sturdy platforms and chunky leather bags, the prada girl is very covered up, but definitely not lacking in sex appeal.
over at gucci, frida giannini was in a 70s mood, inspired by david bowie’s ziggy stardust days. the collection included space dyed minis, gold lame and velvet pantsuits, draped silk jersey with down-to-there necklines and croc biker jackets worn with skinny pants tucked into boots. some of the standout pieces included a beaded long sleeve backless gown and a von furstenberg like long jersey wrapdress with dolman sleeves and belted waist with tassels. the problem with this collection, as has been the issue with gucci since tom ford’s departure is consistency. giannini went from 40s glamour in s/s to 70s disco queen here, and the collection looks like a bad missoni/versace mix. it will be interesting to see how buyers and editors feel about it.
matthew williamson presented his first collection at pucci, taking over for christian lacroix. his star pull was immediately felt, bringing sienna miller to the front row. what was interesting that for a company known for its psychedelic prints, williamson’s collection was a bit somber: solid black, cream, and purple knit coats, short peter pan collar dresses, and military inspired jackets, camel babydoll fur trimmed coats, angora sweaterdresses, and tapestry print suits. there were a few segments of signature pucci prints, like a purple/white/black swirl catsuit (?)and a grey based flower print on a silk chiffon minidress, but hopefully next season the excitement that williamson brings to his namesake line will pop up here.