after the first few shows in milan, i wasn’t really impressed. burberry prorsum, which has been veering into repetitive territory, was drab, looking almost like a prada reject. last season, i loved jil sander and bottega veneta, but their spring efforts weren’t as strong. at bottega, the color palette was more fall than spring, and the leahter dresses seemed out of place. and yes, i know raf simons wept tears of joy, but i wish he had stuck with the angular dresses or did more with the fringe. one thing i did love were the earrings, co-designed with damiani. miuccia prada also used a rumpled glamour as a starting point…more successful than burberry, but not by much. and then there were the shoes.
and i don’t know what’s going on at gucci. i felt like i was looking at three collections; none of it was cohesive and overall it looked very cheap. the bright spot was chanel iman, who became the first black model to walk for the house since the tom ford days.
so was there any good in milan? the 6267 team did a lovely architectural homage at gianfranco ferré, and we still have fendi, versace, and dolce & gabbana. hopefully we’ve hit rock bottom and there’s no where to go but up.
pics from nymag and style.it