July 7, 2017

spring/summer 2018 paris: proenza schouler.


couture shows have been going on in paris the last week or so, but also mixed in were some strictly resort shows (like miu miu) and some resort/spring mashups, like rodarte, monique lhuillier, and proenza schouler. lazaro hernandez and jack mccollough announced back in january that they were not only aligning their shows to the couture calendar, but also presenting pre-collections (like pre-fall and resort) together with the main collection. the change means a few things: the clothes will start appearing in stores sooner and stay in stores longer, plus it gives the runway collections a bit of a higher profile (as with most brands, the pre-collections make the money, but the runway pieces have the most craftsmanship and intricacies). showing during couture is a bit intimidating i’m sure for a somewhat young american brand, but these guys know a thing or two about adding the frills. to bring some of that detail to the pieces, they worked with independent ateliers in paris that specialize in techniques that aren’t found anywhere else. so imagine a top with over 30,000 sequins, or a skirt with ostrich feathers or ruched tulle that looks fur-like from far away.

the overall collection was a bit more femme than i typically gravitate to, with corset details, high slit skirts, poppy florals, ruffles, crochet, and sexy cutouts, but there were also hints of masculinity in boxy jackets and touches of leather. when it was mashed all together, it felt interesting, and the styling with flats kept it fresh. as per usual with ps, i’m obsessed with the accessories, especially the shoes (some made of metal and glass) and the elsa perretti-esque metal and plastic bracelets. watch the whole show here.

photo credits: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9