for his resort collection for calvin klein, francisco costa continues to explore the play of loose and tight, as well as adding more color to the very muted palette he did for fall/winter. the looks included slim tank dresses, trapeze coats, slouchy linen pantsuits, high waist trousers, and a smattering of swimwear: halter one-pieces and bikinis with boyshorts. gray, black, and white were anchor colors, as he added pieces of aqua, bright coral, silver, and magenta. the collection for me was a bit of old calvin mixed with narciso rodriguez. a good mix indeed, but after his stellar f/w collection where costa finally seemed ready to emerge from the shadows, this collection to me was a retreat.
at nina ricci, olivier theyskens loosened up the silhouette, but just a bit as he presented slouchy shorts, eyelash fringe tunic sweaters, boyfriend blazers & cuffed trousers, and drop-waist minidresses. but, as with rochas, there were also pieces with a more rock-n-roll egde, like colorblock shifts, washed leather jackets, skinny suits, and ankle length slim pants. the gowns. again steal the show, in blue ombré prints, one shoulder draped silk, all with fishtail hems.
helmut lang’s michael and nicole colovos developed a collection using a very helmut palette of black, white and cream, with shots of pink and khaki. the looks included asymetrical zip jackets, strap closure blazers, slim pants, t-back nylon dresses, hooded multipocket anoraks, cotton trenchcoats, and blouson minidresses.
prada’s resort collection had quite a different feel from anything muiccia has done over the past few seasons. to me, it felt like a miu miu collection rather than prada. the silhouette was very 50s, with large circle skirts worn with little cardigans, silk draped collar dresses, floral pantsuits with cropped pants, and metallic prom-style gowns. it will be very interesting to see how this develops into the s/s collection, or even if it pops up during the mens shows next week.
pics from nymag.com and vogue.fr