October 9, 2006

it ain’t over ’til it’s over.


three of the most anticipated spring shows veered off in three totally separate directions, but with interesting results.

at miu miu, miuccia prada presented a collection replete with structure: no frills or girlyness here. she stuck to rich color blocks of plum, black, brown, and navy and put them on slim shirts and tunics. there was also slim, high waist pants, wide sleeve tunics, drop waist tennis dresses, african prints on skirts and long dresses, and japanese infludences on hankerchief hem halter dresses and scallop hem skirts.

alber elbaz was inspired by the future, as were other designers this spring, but his collection for lanvin was not robotic but more sexy. the looks included grecian-inspired micropleated halter minidresses, sports-inspired tops with racerbacks and t-backs, parachute material t-dresses with multiple zip pockets, suits and jumpsuits, loose double breasted jackets, silk shirtdresses with elastic cutout waists, bustier minis with pleat detailing, and slick black trenchcoats. the final section of dresses was stellar: halter trapezes, tanks covered in gold metal circles, one sleeve minis, and silks embellished with metal ring necklaces.

alexander mcqueen produced a collection of almost demi-couture, putting the theatrics aside, and like john galliano at dior, produced a collection of thoroughly wearable clothes. from 40s style suiting (cropped jackets and longer slim skirts, slim with hip length jackets and ankle pants, edwardian jackets with tails and bird print dresses) to luscious gowns (black tiered skirts with cream embroidery and illusion bodices, lace overlay numbers with graduated hemline and bustle, navy lace with elbow length sleeves, tulle overlay with bubble hem), and everything in between (crystal strap suspender skirts, fall away lace one shoulder tops, glen plaid slouchy trousers, dainty round toe pumps and feather strap sandals), the collection showed that mcqueen is still a fashion force to be reckoned with.