at calvin klein, francisco costa used herringbone as his main theme, weaving it into chiffon halter tops, as a border on dresses, and glittery in sequins and patterns on long gowns. the mostly black color palette (save for some pieces in red, cream, and grey) was the perfect backdrop for the textures that herringbone has to offer, and while it seemed that the fabrics were a bit on the light side, the layering was superb, and there were signature calvin coats (and even a few furs) to mix it up.
meanwhile, at proenza schouler, jack mccollough and lazaro hernandez mixed many rich details, like metallic squiggles, leather, ponyskin, draped silk and lace in colors like magenta, plum, mossy green and black. they also stuck to their body conscious, almost armor-like silhouette, save for a mahogany leather trapeze biker jacket (and one shown later in black wool). they used colorblocking to great effect, shadowing the shape of a woman’s body, revealing a grown up sexiness, also seen at narciso rodriguez.