the resort (or as it’s also called, spring) shows have been going on for the past few weeks, and while most of it has had a feeling of the “same old thing,” there are a handful of designers out there who produced stunning collections of clothes that real women will want to wear. here are my picks for the top four collections for spring.
reed krakoff stuck with a minimalist palette of cream, black, tan, and grey, but the silhouettes were nothing but ordinary. he worked with long vests, liquid sequin tankdresses, thin leather halter tops, cropped slim trousers, paperbag waist shorts, and utilitarian style raincoats.
jack and lazaro at proenza schouler were inspired by a recent trip to india, and there were exotic touched abound but still grounded in the ps girl, who is very urban. bandhani print dresses and shorts were paired with woven striped shirts, space-dyed sweaters, and baja pullovers, while ladylike bouclé jackets, suede shorts, and mesh knits rounded out the pieces. open-toe lace up flat booties and a new shape for the ps1–the long strap pochette in croc) brought the vibrant vibe back to the concrete jungle.
phoebe philo’s collection for celine continued to push forward her idea of “easy chic,” but this time adding a bit of sportiness to the mix: wide leg trousers, notched collar v-neck tunics, patch pocket linen skirts, and leather trimmed shifts seamlessly weaved into drawsting waist bermudas, colorblocked tees, and side striped pants. while the palette was typical celine, there were gorgeous liberty-style florals and a graphic print that made it onto a day jumpsuit and tie neck blouse & drop pleat skirt. accessories were also key: the classic bag seen all over the past fashion week has morphed into an oversized day clutch size, there were silver chokers and matching bangles, and totes came with chunky zippers or in fabric combos of linen & leather.
jonathan saunders’ resort show was a study in femininity mashed in distorted graphic/floral prints. black, grey and white served as the perfect backdrop for his experimentation–i loved the black scuba-style tees, long column gowns, sporty bikini tops, and easy drop-waist sleeveless dresses. and even if prints aren’t your style, there were enough solids (a metallic olive pleated skirt, a grey bustier dress with exposed seams, and military button front shirts) to make a girl happy.
pics from nymag.com and style.com