valentino was in a russian mood for f/w, with intricate embroidery, mixed prints, and fur trims. there was a black double faced wool coat had a fox hem and cuffs, velvet dresses with beaded sleeves, rich bordeaux tweed suiting, leopard print boleros, and bell skirt cocktail dresses. valentino really shined when the collection turned to evening, as his gowns of tiered lace, tapestry patterns, and asymmetrical hems and shoulders will undoubtedly show up in many a red carpet.
john galliano pulled out all the theatrics for dior, referencing joan of arc, siouxsie sioux, and botticelli. he bounced back and forth between red and black plastic goth gowns, “fin” pleated organza with sword headdresses, leggings worn with platforms and giant fur coats, and draped silk gowns with “armor” sleeves. and, as usual, galliano did not disappoint in his finale, dropping down into this garden of eden dressed as an astronaut.