so far this week, there has been alot of looking forward and moving forward, in terms of what is being shown on the runway and how it’s being shown. alexander wang left the leggings behind for tailoring, joseph altuzurra gained sophistication, and zac posen shed his gowns in favor of youth. for marc jacobs, moving forward meant looking back, to the more stripped down almost nerdy collections from f/w 2004 and 2005. to the theme of “over the rainbow,” jacobs’ show started promptly at 8, when he and business partner robert duffy pulled the kraft paper off a wood frame box in the middle of the floor of the lexington street armory. the girls held therein were dressed in cozy neutrals, furs, and sharp tweeds.
coats were given top billing, with variations including a classic navy peacoat, long cream wool wrap with lamb cuffs and hem, mitered stripe car coats, grey shearling, and glittery sequin trenches. skirts aired on the longer side, with shin-length flared hems or in knee-length checked pencil, pants had a higher waist and a fuller, flared leg , day dresses had eyelet hems and were topped with chunky wool sweaters or peter pan collar cardigans. jacobs mixed up the menswear with frilly chiffon dresses with sweet pinafore underlayers worn with metallic mary janes and knee-socks.
and in the evening, when the “conservative” girl goes to a cocktail party or a gala, she wears a sleeveless pailette sheath with long leather gloves, a hammered metallic gown or a full on silk floral dress–still grey in ground for an added touch of irony. in wwd, jacobs said, “sometimes beautiful is enough,” and he’s more than right.
pics from nymag.com and fashionologie.com
