kate and laura mulleavy of rodarte have a wonderful way of being true to themselves while also expanding the vocabulary of the house. for fall, the knotted and tattered sweaters were back, but there was also crinkled leather that looked almost marbled, papier mache mixed with transparent “plastics” and seemingly rough hewn stitched panels resembling body armour. and instead of studded platform sandals, in their place was lace up thigh high boots that added a “blade runner” effect to the whole thing.
derek lam’s take on american sportswear got a little sexier this season, as he added fur to jackets and collars on coats, slim leather pants and draped silk skirts. i loved the mix of shine on daywear (like hammered sequin sleeves on a t-shirt dress, or a boxy wool popover top paired with a houndstooth beaded mini). the fabrics were lush suedes, silks, cashmere, and wool but in easy, elegant shapes that you’ll reach for again and again. evening was pared down in terms of grandeur–no gowns, just gorgeously bias cut crepe or strapless silk cocktail dresses.
finally, i ended my day at the tents at narciso rodriguez. there was a group of nypd officers mingling about, and i thought for a second that i may have a first lady spotting. no, it was just kanye west and crew, who took their seats just before the lights came down. everyone was in for a treat. narciso was back to his close to the body silhouette that made him a hit in 2003. the first look was reminiscent of the coat ms. obama wore on inauguration weekend, but also of his opening exit from f/w 04.05. from there, it seemed to go in a good direction–monochromatic emsembles of suits, coats, and day dresses in white, black, camel, and eye-popping yellow. the camouflage bubble skirts and strange futuristic hats? not so much. but the scuba inspired pieces, like a sleek hooded top worn with a seamed clingy skirt, or a cropped top with built in thumbholes were my favorites, along with the coats and suits–always his strength. take away some of the strange styling (does anyone wear white tights after age 6?) and you’ll find some classic narciso pieces.
tomorrow, a report from my final day in new york, which includes michael kors and proenza schouler…
rodarte images from coutorture; lam and rodriguez: nymag.com