fall/winter 2017 paris: olivier theyskens.

some designers seem to come out with a bang and fade away just as quickly, but not olivier theyskens. his first flash of brilliance was the black dress he designed for madonna for the 1998 academy awards. gothic but also ethereal, his own line took off after that—obviously—and he shuttered it after being named the creative director for the relaunched house of rochas in 2002. there he championed the mermaid silhouette and a more formal way of dressing that became known as “demi-couture.” after rochas he moved onto nina ricci (this plum gown on reese witherspoon is an all-time favorite), then in a strange twist did a diffusion line for theory (that i actually loved) that led to him becoming the creative director there. and then poof, gone. last september he reemerged (not really, he was secretly working behind the scenes with a small team in paris while in new york managing theory), back at his namesake brand. that collection seemed the opposite of where he was in the late nineties/early 00’s, full of leather, flirty miniskirts, androgynous jackets, and sheer paneled dresses. the fall show was even more youthful with the addition of denim and fun layers, like knitwear under bustiers and over floaty chiffon maxi skirts, and sheer turtlenecks under dresses. the looks gave me some inspiration for things to try now with pieces already in my closet, and for next winter. and theyskens, dare i say is back, even though he really never completely went away.

photos via vogue

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